Signature backsaw handle.

Discussion in 'Saw Makers Forum' started by planemaker, Feb 14, 2012.

  1. planemaker

    planemaker Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    After 12 months of making backsaws as well as trialing different saw handles it was time for me to consolidate my restrict my work to 3 to 4 designs only. This following handle shape is for backsaws 12" and above. I have attached photo's that show you each of the important steps involved from start to finish.

    I hope you find the following information of some help especially to those who may have considered giving backsaw making a go.

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    Here you can view the handle as its shaped to design paper template. Some rounding to the handle as well as the inside of the finger hole has also been completed. I prefer to drill and fit the saw screws very early into the work.

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    The 12" x 3" saw plate shaped and fitted within the handle.

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    To help me mark the harback mortise within the handle I prefer to use a spare length of hardback which is fitted to the toothline. The use of upper and lower hardbacks locks the external saw plate in the same parrallel alignment to that within the handle. A good method to use if you want to keep the saw plate nice and straight along the toothline.

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    To clean out the hardback mortise on the handle I like to use a variety of hand tools that also include planemaker floats.

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    In this photo you can see that the brassback has been cut to length, rounded off at the toe, and secured to the handle. The bottom line of the saw plate is also nice and straight.

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    The shaping of the handle is also nearly completed.


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    Hear you can see the final stages of sharpening the saw teeth. I chose to go for a 12 tpi. rip tooth for this backsaw. The saw vise clamping length was modified from its original 9 " to a new 23.5 "

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    The final look of the backsaw. The Tas.Tiger Myrtle chosen for the handle came up a treat. I only use 0000 steel wool between each coat of wood sealer and shellac. Another unique saw to add to my collection.

    Regards; Stewie
     
  2. TraditionalToolworks

    TraditionalToolworks Most Valued Member

    Messages:
    189
    Great looking handle!

    My only comment is that I believe the hardest part of handles is the saw nuts. This was/is the most difficult piece of saw making for me, to get the fit/finish where they look spectacular.

    I think we all struggle to get that aspect right, at least I know I do.
     
  3. planemaker

    planemaker Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Hi Alan. Thanks for the feedback. The dowside of making the handle thichness on this backsaw 1" is most traditional saw screws do not spread far enough apart to give a flush finish. I have in the past kept my handles a tad under 7/8".

    Regards; Stewie.
     
  4. ray

    ray Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    671
    Hi Stewie,

    Beautiful work, as I said before, your saws just get better and better.

    I like the progression of the pictures, it helps others to follow the process in more detail.

    The idea of using planemakers edge floats to clean out the mortise for the back is a great idea.. I made some edge floats from O1 tool steel, but only 1/8" thick, a 1/4" planemakers edge float would be perfect for the job.

    Regards
    Ray
     
  5. TraditionalToolworks

    TraditionalToolworks Most Valued Member

    Messages:
    189
    Yes, that is most likely so. I usually use 13/16" for much of my handles, as I have a ton of hard maple that was drum sanded to 13/16" prior to me buying it. I got it for $0.50/bf, so the price was right and almost all of it has some type of grain as the seller had a contract for clear hard maple handle stamps, and this wood was what was not clear. I use that size as a gauge when I make handles.

    I turn my own split nuts on a small South Bend 9A, so thickness wouldn't be a problem, I would just make them the size I need. I typically thread more than I need, to give extra space if needed as well (on the bolt). One of my pet peeves is different metals for the nuts and/or back. In that regard I would not use brass split nuts and a bronze back, that would bother me. I use bronze for my backs and nuts, and really like the looks of bronze. The worst for me is silver nuts and brass backs...that looks cheezy to me.

    I especially like your handle as it is unique, and no others like it that I have seen. This can get negative feedback on the style from old curmudgeons, but if that happens hold your ground. I'd rather have something unique than a copy of someone's work.

    On my closed handles, I created some unique styling on them, and kept changing them until I got it how I wanted. There is no question that I created it as I have never seen anything else like them, and others see that as well. The first ones looked kinda like Woody Woodpecker, but then evolved...

    Here's the last closed handle saw I created, I was pretty pleased with it. I gave it to a friend I went to high school with, he builds cabinets for a living and in fact built the cabinets in the kitchen of my house. He uses this saw all the time for installs, to cut the molding when he installs them.

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  6. planemaker

    planemaker Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Signature backsaw handle

    Hi Alan. Thats a unique style of saw handle. Its shaping is very bold with distinctive elements that give a rustic but most pleasant appearance. Very nice.

    Stewie;
     
  7. TraditionalToolworks

    TraditionalToolworks Most Valued Member

    Messages:
    189
    Thanks, I think each handle takes on a personality of it's own.

    This was about as good as I have been able to get the saw nuts to fit, there is just one small gap along the top of the top nut, but as I mentioned I consider that one piece to be about the most difficult to get right.

    The other side has a better fit but I like split-nuts, so like the washer side...lol

    The first couple handles were kinda awkward, but not bad in function though.

    First handle of the evolution, and you can see how bad the split nut fit and finish is, I didn't even flatten them. I entered it in a contest for WoodCentral and Chris Schwarz was one of the judges...his comment was something to the effect of the next one will probably be more polished. This was my first entire saw.

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    And that evolved into this one, which is one of my favorites, but I broke it trying to see how capable the saw was...I glued it back together. I made another handle which I didn't like, but it was given to a friend. I put a bigger handle on it, and it ended up looking really out of shape...it was 18" long, 3" deep. I also drilled the back hole so it split the back side of the steel, and it really couldn't hold the blade tight...why I was stressing it...:eek:

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    And the replacement handle, I hate this handle, and felt I rushed it to get it done...it just didn't have my heart into it and it looks dorky in reflection. Notice I still didn't understand how to get the split nuts flush...

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    And finally with the last saw, I slapped my forehead...and while I have similar style bevels around the cheeks, you can kinda see how it evolved. They always had a unique style to them, but this was nice.

    I also like the one that broke, and I still have that handle glued back together but not on a saw.

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    BTW Stewie, that brass back on your saw looks HUGE, how big is it?
     

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  8. planemaker

    planemaker Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Hi Alan. I will double check the sizing on the brass backs I use and get back to you. Ray would know the details straight away as he supplied me with them, including the saw plate .

    The leather pouch shown in the 1st picture. Is that something you made also.

    Stewie;.


    Alan. The size of the brass back I use is 3/4 x 14".

    Stewie;
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2012
  9. TraditionalToolworks

    TraditionalToolworks Most Valued Member

    Messages:
    189
    Yes, actually it is. I bought a piece of leather at Tandy, and a book on hand stitching, decided on a simple design, kinda similar to the LN (Tom is a great guy, I have grown to admire him over the years). I did a couple of bone headed things on it, but I did learn...lol

    Since I don't have a stitching horse, I just used my Emmert clone turned on end with the jaws skewed, pinching on top so I could stitch with a hand awl and thread, and a needle. The Emmert clone for me is an indispensable tool for making handles.
    How thick ???? I've used 3/4" x 3/16" x 12". Yours looks like 1/4" thick, and if so, that's a pretty hefty back. When your fabricating it's much harder to get some of the sizes. 3/16" is available for brass, but for bronze 1/4" is the thinnest I can get without a lot of work to take it down to 3/16", since I have to cut the balance off to do so. Also, I'm going to 1/2" x 1/4" so that I can cut a 1" bar in half lengthwise. Otherwise it is just too heavy IMO.

    With my pair of bronze Joiner's saws, one back is 3/16" thick, and one is 1/4" thick. The one that is 1/4" thick is only 1/2" wide. I like that for saws up to 14" I think. I have been dragging my feet to build a pair of 14" x 3" .020" plates. I plan to use 1/4" thick x 1/2" wide x 13" long (plate is about 13-3/4" long.

    In fact I just measured a piece of Alloy 360 that is 1/4" thick x 3/4" wide, 18" long. It hasn't been slotted yet, but has been chamfored on top with a nice V. I think it's too heavy though.

    I've tried slotting some 1/8" thick, and it can be done, but is very touchy.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2012