Slitting a brass saw back

Discussion in 'Saw Makers Forum' started by ray, Sep 20, 2008.

  1. ray

    ray Guest

  2. pedder

    pedder Guest

    Hi Ray,

    nice looking gauge. I wonder how to use it. If used with a saw file wouldn\'t it be destroyed? Do you stick something on the site of the file wich touches the gouge?

    Cheers Pedder

    Edit: sorry, wrong thread.:S
     
  3. kevjed

    kevjed Guest

    Thanks Ray. This looks like a very practical way of doing it. I would guess that your drill press table is raised and lowered for course adjustment and you shim the timber jig for fine? Thanks for the insight.
    Kevin
     
  4. ray

    ray Guest

    Hi Kevin,

    A bit of additional info, the bottom of the arbor that holds the blade is resting lightly on the
    wooden block, (drilled out with a forstner bit to the right depth. The idea here is that I don\'t want the saw to drop out of the morse taper, if it does, I don\'t want it to go anywhere.

    A drill press is not really designed for side loads, so the hole helps take up some of the side load as well.

    The next version, I will put a bearing under it, and the drill chuck is only tightened late in the setup.

    One other thing, I cranked the drill press down as slow as it would go, and backed off the belt tension
    so in the event of a jammed blade it just spins.

    I plan to do a more detailed write-up, maybe make a full article for the website.

    Regards
    Ray
     
  5. mranum

    mranum New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Where can you get a blade and mandrel like that? I haven\'t seen them before. I thought about the abrasive cutting wheel but I think they would get too hot.
     
  6. ray

    ray Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    668
    Hi mranum,

    I got mine off ebay (that\'s the el-cheapo way), since I\'m only slitting brass I went with the cheap option.

    Here is the arbor
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SLITTING-SAW-SLOTTING-SAW-HOLDER-WITH-1-2-SHANK-NEW_W0QQitemZ380110696282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_BnI_Woodworking_Metalworking?hash=item380110696282&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318

    if that link is too long try..
    http://tinyurl.com/d383rk

    and do a search for \"slitting saw\" you should find whatever blade thickness you need.

    A better quality selection of slitting saws and arbors from a good engineering supply house like,

    http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/productlist.html?subdepartments=Saws,+Plain+Slitting:658,661
    or shorter version... http://tinyurl.com/ctv7ah


    Regards
    Ray
     
  7. mranum

    mranum New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Once you have the back slit, how do you mount the blade? Epoxy, pin, or press the assembly together, any of the above?

    I would assume a press fit or epoxy would be the best choice cosmetically for the final finish.
     
  8. ray

    ray Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    668
    Hi mranum,

    I just clamp the slit brass in the vise with cauls either side and squash the 20thou slot
    a little to provide an interference fit.

    You can use a little bit of loctite as well if you want. Not necessary in my experience.

    Regards
    Ray
     
  9. regisand

    regisand Guest

  10. rtleach

    rtleach Member

    Messages:
    7
    I got an 1/2 arbor and slit blade from McMaster and mounted it in my router table. Turned the speed way down and made a sled to hold the brass (and save my fingers). I make about 3 passes to slit the 1\" brass bar stock. Works like a charm. I\'ll post pics in a day or so.

    Robert
     
  11. Mike Allen

    Mike Allen Member

    Messages:
    5
    I'm considering the same and would love to see your pictures.