Experiences with Marples #2501 hammer/punch saw-set?

Discussion in 'Saw Makers Forum' started by shoarthing, Jan 25, 2023.

  1. shoarthing

    shoarthing Most Valued Member

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    4C3E35F2-A023-4BCD-BAF6-5A210BFC92F1.jpeg
    (from 1909 Wm Marples catalogue - this model listed from 1897 to 1928)

    . . . . after long searching, have obtained one; in contrast to #2500 (imported US "Seymour Smith") or #2502 (clearly a Preston 1460) . . . has anyone had a good play with a #2501, or restored one? Curious what thread is used (Whitworth?) since the original leaf-spring on my 'barn-find' replaced with a coil, & tool-rest simply absent.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2023
  2. Force10Matt

    Force10Matt Active Member

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    I've got a set much like #2501 the tool rest is perhaps a little shorter but otherwise identical, I can try and measure the thread tomorrow if you like. I used to use it a fair bit but I was lucky enough to buy a bemaco 400 spring hammer setting machine and have barely used it since. They do the job well but aren't the most friendly design to use.

    Something I was always curious about on that design was the bottom part, I assumed it was designed to be held in a vice but the part you would clamp is tapered both ways which makes it a bit of a challenge to hold. I used to set it in a hole in a oak lintel offcut and drive it in so the taper held fast in the hole but I often wandered how it was intended to be held.

    Any ideas?

    Regards
    Matt
     
  3. shoarthing

    shoarthing Most Valued Member

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    Thank you (tho' I know of no other British set like the #2501 - the 'similar' ones seem to be US Aiken-patent sets) . . . yup, the few punch-sets I came across in use were fitted to sizeable chunks of hardwood . . . including the sole Joseph Marples punch-set (very nice design) I've seen. The strong point about this Wm Marples is it appears to have enough hardened area to hone back to a fine edge . . . my greatest need is for an optimised dovetail-saw set.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2023
  4. Force10Matt

    Force10Matt Active Member

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    I can't remember who's name is on mine but I want to say 'Buck' I'll try to remember to dig it out tomorrow and send you some pics.
     
  5. shoarthing

    shoarthing Most Valued Member

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    . . . thank you! How very interesting. 'Buck' sounds only-too-likely; & if so, helpful.

    NB Edit . . . the 1912 J Buck catalogue shows just one punch sawset (#77) - described as "Preston patent" & visually v similar to Preston's 1460.

    42101252-72D2-4939-B544-BE0D9453EE69.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2023
  6. Dusty Shed Dweller

    Dusty Shed Dweller Most Valued Member

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    I have two (heavily used and abused) Preston 1460s. I read somewhere that only about 300 of these were made. They suffer all the usual issues of punch sets, but these have rather handy fold out support arms and the system of determining the amount of set (two bosses that more in/out) works well.
     
  7. Dusty Shed Dweller

    Dusty Shed Dweller Most Valued Member

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    The 2501 was designed to slot into a hardy hole (in an anvil) or was belted into a log for sharpening in the field. I've used one on 5 foot crosscuts and they work ok
     
  8. Force10Matt

    Force10Matt Active Member

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    That makes sense, I was gifted an anvil recently, i'll take a look and see if it fits.

    Also. I'll try to remember to dig out the saw set and find the maker's mark tomorrow....
     
  9. shoarthing

    shoarthing Most Valued Member

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    That'd be interesting . . . the only stamp I've found on mine reads "W&C WYNN" - a well-known Birmingham manufacturer - & it appears to be possible to regrind/rebuild it to function fully @ a 15° set to small-ish pitch backsaws.

    Would appreciate any images of the hammer/anvil relationship of your punch-set - this model is well-designed & developed for durability; but a few decades of use & zero maintenance can upset any widget. Mine arrived as part of a saw-doctor's kit & had been - well - beaten to within an inch of its life. Possibly via 5' cross-cut plates.

    Here's an image (borrowed, with apologies, from an Oz forum) of one, with what appears to be a replacement anvil:

    FDE2EE48-B614-432B-AEFA-F5E4D641BA36.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2023
  10. Force10Matt

    Force10Matt Active Member

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    I finally remembered.

    It was a Buck.
     

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  11. Force10Matt

    Force10Matt Active Member

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    The anvil is tapered in both ways and just slides in and wedges itself in place.
    The biggest problem with mine is the slop in the joint between the two back stops, they don't move together when you adjust it as they're intended to buy rather flop about almost independently as soon as you release the nut.
     
  12. shoarthing

    shoarthing Most Valued Member

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    Most interesting - JOSEPH BUCK - will try to obtain/view a copy of their 1912 catalogue. (EDIT) not in 1912 catalogue; Preston #1460 listed as #77

    It's possible - but not fun - to peen-tighten the fit between the moving tooth-depth-stop & its square-ish threaded shaft. Not exactly the kind of precision adjust one might have in one's dreams. Appreciate your neat use of a (light) modern coil - mine has a old & overstrong coil.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2023