Hi victor, HSMOB has Crownshaw Chapman from 1879 to 1911, I do not know any way of telling where, within these dates this saw lies. I put this thread on some time ago http://www.backsaw.net/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=58&jfile=showthread.php&t=59 and there is a reference to Crownshaw Chapman being taken over from 1911 to 1915 by Wright Brindley and Gell. I think because of the domed nuts on mine I placed it after 1911 but yours are (presumably) ground flat with split nuts on the back and so this puts it (nominally) before the 1911/12 boundary for the changeover of nut styles on British saws. Although this changeover is by no means written in stone for all makes. I don't even know if the style of mark stayed the same throughout their production. Perhaps someone else could enlighten us on this. But whatever the case, it is a another saw that is well worth owning. Fred PS Here's mine, although a little more down-at-heel than yours.
Thank's so much Fred , i'm learning alot more from you in a day than i have in months..! I havent changed anything on the saw , even though i admit it was my first cleanup and i did not know better as to overdoing . I have a few more saw's in line for a cleanup but i'm a bit more reluctant to go all the way now, any advise from you would be greatly respected. Still i hope the saw will age well with me as i have a feeling this one will be close at hand in my first steps at woodworking. Kind regards P.S. spoiler photos !
Hi Victor, I am not really the one to talk about saw cleaning as I am not a "User" generally speaking and I like my saws to show their history. Having said that, I have cleaned saws when either they or I have been in a state of extremis, or when I have had to create a clean patch on the blade or back in order to see a stamp, I sometimes then clean the rest of that side of the saw so that the clean bit doesn't stand out like a sore thumb. I think that the best summary of saw cleaning was either given by Ray or Joe (apologies to the author if it wasn't one of these two) in that a saw should be cleaned and maintained to a standard expected by a competent user. I cannot disagree but with the proviso that it is a user saw and not a museum piece. As for the mechanics of doing it. Simon swears by garnet paper {it removes the rust without scratching the metal (sort of in my experience, or perhaps the quality of steel in the blades that I have used it on has not been the best)} or failing that various grades (starting relatively coarse and finishing up very fine) of carborundum paper and/or wire wool with the lubricant of your choice. I have taken to using a very dense brass wire brush to take the easily removable rust and dirt off. It performs well and leaves a finish that for me is acceptable without further treatment 90% of the time. I actually like the way that you have done your saw. I don't know why - and I shouldn't - but I do. Fred
Crownshaw Chapman People clean up saws they way they like them, and as it's a matter of opinion, I don't think there is a right or a wrong way, even if some cleaning (eg with angle grinders... honestly!) goes way beyond what I personally like. If you really like a saw, you'll give it all the TLC you can find and it gives you (I mean me, when I do it) a huge amount of pleasure. I usually aim to get a saw into something like the condition it might have been in when it was being used in its heyday, but with deeply pitted steel you've no chance. It it's a user, then make it how it works best. I think I'd find using this one would be a nice experience. CC's dates as here: CROWNSHAW, CHAPMAN & Co SHEFFIELD Don Saw Works, Penistone Road 1876-1898 Amalgamated with Wright, Bindley & Co at same address 1900-1931 Mowbray Street (Burton Road [possibly same buildings] in 1957) 1941-1961 1879: William Joseph Crownshaw and Thomas Chapman, manufacturers of saws, files and steel. The only form of documentation of this firm’s excellence comes from the medals awarded at the trade exhibitions shown on a hand saw etch. Crownshaw may well have been connected with the Birkenhead man, but there is no confirmatory documentation. CROWNSHAW, George BIRKENHEAD 27 Market Street 1894-1933 Toolmaker and saw manufacturer. Became proprietor of Alexander T.Murray at some point in the 1930’s.
Hi there , thanks for your further info . I can tell you this saw for me is nothing like the other's i have ... I had a bit of a sharpening session this week on a few of the saw's and when testing them the Crownshaw amazed me even more, smooth effortless cut-thinnest curf of all the others ( I mean i knew it was thin steel ... but how thin does it get?? )...i'm a really happy bunny ,enough said. Side question of the mentioned session is : The Groves dovetail has a very thick plate , i have no clue as i'm a complete begginer, is this normal ?( it's curf is almost like the curf of the Groves hand saw!) As far as i can tell it definitely looks as it's original plate. Finally i would like to say a big thank you to " the team " ,i allready feel at home with you guys , it's great!
Do you have a micrometer or vernier calipers? It might be the set of the teeth rather than the plate so much?? Cheers, Paul
Hi , i've been away for a while so missed this . About the groves 10'', there is no set and it's 'filed' rip ( the saw was in the wrong home probably as it had a very bad toothline) .I'm half way through sharpening now and it looks like the patient will survive. The plate is thick trust me ( handsaw thick ), i just dont know any other example of a small backsaw with a plate like that, any others like this? kind regards