I just finished work on another dt saw. This time a closed handle. The handle wood is Makore. The saw plate length is 10", and its been sharpened 14tpi rip tooth. I hope you like the final look.

Regards; Stewie.














No need for Foley Machine's. Its sharpened the old fashion way. By hand.

Stewie,

Looks good, but I'm curious why you didn't flush up the nuts on the cheek?

What does the other side look like with the washers ?

Don't mean to be critical of your work, just curious...I've seen other saws that do not have flush nuts on the cheeks, and I think it looks much better when you flush them up.

Other than that, it looks great! XLNT job!

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Alan DuBoff

Traditional Toolworks

Hi Alan. This was done to prevent the saw screws from damaging the top edge of the housings when dismantling. You will also note the slight radial left on the saw screw flats.

Regards; Stewie.

I like the looks of the flushed up brass on the wood, but yeah, once you dis-assemble them it's usually near impossible to get the washer side flush again, unless you were to flush it back up and finish it. For that matter, once you tighten a loose handle, that could happen also.

Do you use split-nut or screw? I don't think you posted a pic of that side.

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Alan DuBoff

Traditional Toolworks

Hi Alan. I use traditional saw screws. Both faces are flattened using a 12" bench sander. I lock the assembled screws onto a pre bored block of wood whoch lays flat on the tool rest during flattening. One day I will get myself a mini metal lathe and make my own split nut saw screws. I also do traditional wooden hand planes. The lathe would come in handy for making up some Norris Blade Adjusters.You may not have noticed in the photo's but the 1st 2 inches of saw tooth don't have any set. This gives the saw a smoother start to the saw kerf. The set teeth keep the kerf wide enough to avoid any binding of the saw blade as it gets deeper into the cut.

Stewie.