Thanks Ray. This looks like a very practical way of doing it. I would guess that your drill press table is raised and lowered for course adjustment and you shim the timber jig for fine? Thanks for the insight.
A bit of additional info, the bottom of the arbor that holds the blade is resting lightly on the
wooden block, (drilled out with a forstner bit to the right depth. The idea here is that I don't want the saw to drop out of the morse taper, if it does, I don't want it to go anywhere.
A drill press is not really designed for side loads, so the hole helps take up some of the side load as well.
The next version, I will put a bearing under it, and the drill chuck is only tightened late in the setup.
One other thing, I cranked the drill press down as slow as it would go, and backed off the belt tension
so in the event of a jammed blade it just spins.
I plan to do a more detailed write-up, maybe make a full article for the website.
I got an 1/2 arbor and slit blade from McMaster and mounted it in my router table. Turned the speed way down and made a sled to hold the brass (and save my fingers). I make about 3 passes to slit the 1" brass bar stock. Works like a charm. I'll post pics in a day or so.