Hello, and a few saws I am working on

Discussion in 'Saw Makers Forum' started by Isaac S, May 4, 2012.

  1. Isaac S

    Isaac S Member

    Messages:
    5
    Hello to all. I recognize a few names from other forums, but there are some new faces as well.

    I am wrapping up my first batch of saws. I have built a couple before, but those were just done one at a time. This batch was to see how hard it would be to scale those methods up. It turned out to be a little more challenging and time consuming than I had guessed, but it's been very educational.


    This post will show some of the work that goes into the spine. What I get from the machinist is a 1/4 x 3/4 x 12 bar that is slit and chamfered. After shaping the end with various files and cutting the spine to length, I sand and polish them. That is the bulk of the work; the next step is much more fun - stamping the spine.

    The stamp is about 1 1/4" wide, and came from Infinity Stamps. They were great to work with, and had very reasonable prices. To ensure the stamp is in the correct location, I use a jig to hold both the spine and the stamp. I use an old hydraulic laboratory press to apply the stamp.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]





    To hold the blade in the spine, I know of three options: LocTite or epoxy, rivets or screws, and friction. I use friction, which requires the slot to be closed up slightly. It takes very little closure to achieve a very tight friction fit. I aim for about 0.003", which means the slot for a 0.025" blade will actually measure about 0.022" at the opening. Going much smaller greatly increase the effort needed to insert the blade into the slot; even the 0.003" closure requires vigorous beating with a large hammer to fully seat the blade. Once in, it is every bit as secure as in a folded back.

    To close the slot, I use a jig in the same hydraulic press I use to stamp the spines. The jig is three pieces of aluminum flat bar that stack. The index cards are used as shims to provide enough clearance to close the slot. Before using it again, I will have the middle bar milled down so the paper is no longer needed. By pressing with the same force each time, the amount of closure is fairly predictable.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




    After the slot has been closed up, the blade can be bashed into the spine. Doing so requires a fair amount of effort. I start one corner, then work it down over the length of the blade. The blade rests, teeth down, on a scrap of wood. I pound on the spine with a wood faced hammer so as to not leave any marks or dents.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




    The next two pictures are a little out of order, but they show how I drill for the nuts and bolts. After drilling a 3/16" hole though the handle, I use a counterbore with a depth stop collar to bore out for the heads of the bolts and nuts. The steel plate prevents the stop collar from actually touching the wood and scarring it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]





    The handles are substantially done, requiring only a bit of rubbing and waxing. Of the thirteen quartersawn apple blanks I began with, two have already been finished, two were lost along the way to errors on my part, and the remaining nine are seen below. The finish is three coats of Tru-Oil.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]








    That's it for now. Thanks for taking the time to look at this. I look forward to any comments, suggestions, or ideas you may have about this saw build.

    Isaac
     
  2. sumo

    sumo Member

    Messages:
    8
    Wow!
    I first found out about your saws on Pedder's blog/site and then read your recent post on your site.
    That is some amazing work!
     
  3. ray

    ray Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    671
    Wow!

    Hi Isaac,

    First.. welcome to the forum!

    Very impressive work, and well organized tooling, the time you have taken to set up tooling and solve the production problems, show in the quality of the finished saws. That stamp looks perfect..

    I really liked your website.. http://www.blackburntools.com/index.html I particularly like the effort that you've put into the documentation of the saw design. I see a lot of interesting things there that I'll have to go back and spend some more time browsing..

    On the front page, I keep a list of saw makers, so with your permission, I'll add you to the list.

    Congratulations again on a well thought out design, and well executed production.. :)

    Regards
    Ray
     
  4. TraditionalToolworks

    TraditionalToolworks Most Valued Member

    Messages:
    189
    Beautiful work, and the stamp looks XLNT!

    I currently use my blacksmith touch mark, and hammer it, but the press is definitely the way to go and I've been pondering getting one.

    That looks really nice, whoever made the stamp!
     
  5. Isaac S

    Isaac S Member

    Messages:
    5
    Thanks to everyone for the compliments.

    Ray, I would be honored to have my name added to your list.

    Alan, the stamp came from Infinity Stamps in California. I was a little surprised by how fine the detail on it is. I did not expect it to be so clear. I don't know how much a touch mark costs, but this stamp was just under $200 delivered. Infinity was helpful in the process, and very easy to work with.

    Isaac
     
  6. TraditionalToolworks

    TraditionalToolworks Most Valued Member

    Messages:
    189
    Issac,

    I might have to check them out. My touchmark was done by a guy in Ohio I think, and is tempered so that it will withstand the heat when forging iron. It is pretty simple, and was only about $50 as I recall. It's a simple bass clef though. Yours is well worth $200, they did a great job and I agree the detail is xlnt!

    If I can ever get my son to design me a logo I might be able to get a stamp of it.